Jodhpurs In The History Of The World

By Jerri Perry


Most of us know jodhpurs mainly as riding pants and actually may have thought they'd disappeared from the scene. The distinctive flared pants were once familiar sights in the hunt field, at military and police headquarters, and on Hollywood movie sets. Today, however, styles have changed and the long riding pants are now form-fitting.

The traditional jodhpur was roomy at the hip and tight-fitting from knee to ankle. It's a good cut for riding, as it provides freedom of movement for hip and thigh but helps to give a good grip for the lower leg. Modern stretch fabrics have changed the need for the flared hip, which has totally gone out of fashion; today the styles are form-fitting.

The distinctive pant spread to England in the late 19th century, when Sir Pratap Singh of Jodhpur brought his polo team over for the Queen's Jubilee and won many contests. The Indian team wore their traditional riding pants, which caught on with novelty-loving, trend-following English players. They came up with breeches, which had a flared hip but stopped at mid-calf and were worn with tall boots, rather than the low shoes worn in India.

This adaptation was adopted by the rest of the equestrian world, especially after the 1920s when women began to ride astride. It became a familiar look for military staff officers in the west, in Nazi Germany, and in the USSR. Tall boots were part of this sartorial symbol of authority. Motorcycle police also stomp around in tall boots, but the fact that the flare was retained until recently made many think that they were wearing jodhpurs.

True jodhpurs, with a long, tight leg and cuffed ankle, became wear for children and for more informal occasions. Instructors like the fact that leg position can't be hidden when paddock boots are worn instead of taller ones, and many strict people think no child should wear black boots and breeches. The longer pants are better for working around the barn, too.

The long pants can be used with half-chaps or leggings, which cover the lower keg and strap under the paddock boot. This helps prevent rubbing against the stirrup leathers and give a neat look to a rider when mounted. The practice of wearing informal clothes for training and exercising saves expensive, highly-polished tall boots from excessive wear.

A jodhpur pant is made with seams on the outside, to minimize leg irritation, and a reinforced knee panel to help the rider grip the saddle. Some also have seat patches of leather suede or some other non-slip material. Many modern styles feature complete seat and inner leg insets. New fabrics enable four and five-way stretch construction to give maximum comfort to the mounted rider; these non-binding fabrics have led to the loss of the traditional flare. Todays styles are form-fitting from waist to ankle.

Jodhpurs in all colors are acceptable for informal occasions, but competition usually requires traditional beige or white. Saddlebred show riders wear a special style with a flared cuff that comes low over the heel, always in dark blue or black.




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